Eagler's Nest
Engines => 2 Cylinder => 1/2 vw => Topic started by: Flyguyeddy on December 17, 2019, 01:12:01 PM
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Chopped single port head the other day.
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Doesn't look like it's going to work very well... :emoji_u1f62f:
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Ive seen a photo of a converted single port head somewhere but i cannot find it now. Probably on yahoo which means it is long gone
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Perhaps moved the cut over, requiring two full heads to make 2 halves... Not that the spark hole and valve seat could not be welded up and re-machined.
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There is no reason the single port heads couldnt be made to work with pretty much the same anount of welding needed for a dual port.
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Attached is a 1/2 vw conversion manual that mentions converting single port heads... The zip file is pics. The WFM file types will open in "paint". The manual also discusses the advanced balancing method.
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got any better copies of the wfm files? cant read the text and when you zoom in its just blocky pixels
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Unfortunately no... I ran across them here: http://www.ultraligero.net/ (http://www.ultraligero.net/) You could inquire there I suppose.
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Why cut and weld anymore???
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/svw-30231?seid=srese1&gclid=CjwKCAiAvonyBRB7EiwAadauqTZUNyBIsYqBYCA_FGX3oEhqudWPl_vHKWXdC43phTvMHvHlAGSUIBoCeT4QAvD_BwE
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Cost
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No thanks
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https://www.summitracing.com/parts/svw-30231?seid=srese1&gclid=CjwKCAiAvonyBRB7EiwAadauqTZUNyBIsYqBYCA_FGX3oEhqudWPl_vHKWXdC43phTvMHvHlAGSUIBoCeT4QAvD_BwE
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Looks great, Theodore, but where to get valve covers?
I didn't read anything about them, so don't know if they utilize stock VW internals.
Roger
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idk either, i have call in to Summit racing in Utah, no return call yet. i wont buy unless garrentee that i can return.
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People have used the Scat heads. I don't know how successfully however. Global engines came with them. I once saw a turbo charged 1/2 VW fly at Oskosh with them.
I don't like that they don't have cooling fins. The exhaust valve is the weak link.
I don't remember from where, but I have gotten it into my head that these were designed for drag racing. Do one pass, let cool. ETC.
If I used them I would definitely want a CHT gauge.
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I briefly looked at the Scat heads, but decided against them because they have large valves and big ports for high rpm racing. At our rpm, we need small valves and small ports to keep the velocity of fuel-air mix high. This helps with throttle response, low-end torque, and fuel economy. If somebody is planning a VW with re-drive so they can turn 4000 to 6000 rpm (ouch), then big valves and ports will help with horsepower, but not low-end torque.
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my first or early mechanical experience was drag racing (SIR in Seattle), my neighbor had three or four engines ready for the weekend racing, one race the engine would overheat and somthing would break.
yes i noticed Global used 'em thats why im been watching this issue, i suppose global may have have them made special idk. i have a stack of bad T4 heads out back, and a netal band saw and tig welder etc just no time.
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When I was a kid, the guy across the street raced autocross. He always had a Corvair engine in the living room and a car outside with no engine in it. One race, one engine.
I once owned a 1966 140 hp Corsa with the 4 single barrel carbs. I was only able to buy it if I agreed to sell it back. I sold it back for the same price I gave for it. I wish I still had it...
The Corvair heads are allegedly the strong point for that conversion.
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Ha! Yes wish had the cars from or youth once again, i traded my first car(55 Chev belair hardtop)in 1974 for my first motorcycle(Harley short track racer) but almost broke my back in a crash, thats when i was done with bikes...
hmm Dad was right, he said once 'you'll kill yourself on that motorcycle' maybe i listened? also had a friend die but he hit ice coming down the pass, yep done with 'em
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got any better copies of the wfm files? cant read the text and when you zoom in its just blocky pixels
I know this is an old post, but I thought others might find this helpful.
I was able to open the WMF files and zoom in on them readably using the "Draw" module in LibreOffice. LibreOffice can be downloaded for free. Now if I can just invert the color scheme :)
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I know this is an old post, but I thought others might find this helpful.
I was able to open the WMF files and zoom in on them readably using the "Draw" module in LibreOffice. LibreOffice can be downloaded for free. Now if I can just invert the color scheme :)
Send it to me and I'll take a stab at it... Do you mean invert the text color or everything..?
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Send it to me and I'll take a stab at it... Do you mean invert the text color or everything..?
I've attached the original WMF files in a Zip file.
Here is a link to the LibreOffice download:
https://www.libreoffice.org/download/download/
WMF is an old vector graphic format, not many current programs support it. I was hoping to flip the black background and white text/lines. Draw has a color replace feature, but when I tried it the results weren't pretty. I'll probably keep tinkering with it.
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I meant to say, send me the files you enhanced with Libre Office and I will take a stab at reversing the colors of those files.
However if you want, I will take a stab at reversing the originals and let you run them trough Libre Office again...
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I converted the .wmf files to png and they are very sharp and readable but not something you would want to print. I attach those below in a zip folder.
It was taking way too much time to remove the black background and trying to get all the grey drawing lines changed to black. I'm sure you could print them with the transparent background and have the lines print as black if you do not let your printer print in color. So since you have Libre Office I will attach another zip file that you could use to print out the files using that software.
still I would not set the printer to color.
Lemmie know if this does not work out and I will get all of them into .png file type with transparent background and Kinkos could print them for you.
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I converted the .wmf files to png and they are very sharp and readable but not something you would want to print. I attach those below in a zip folder.
It was taking way too much time to remove the black background and trying to get all the grey drawing lines changed to black. I'm sure you could print them with the transparent background and have the lines print as black if you do not let your printer print in color. So since you have Libre Office I will attach another zip file that you could use to print out the files using that software.
still I would not set the printer to color.
Lemmie know if this does not work out and I will get all of them into .png file type with transparent background and Kinkos could print them for you.
I think I've got it as good as I can now. I imported the WMFs into GIMP, scaled them up, inverted the colors, cropped them, exported as PNG. Then scaled them to 11x17 in LibreOffice and exported them as PDF, which I have attached (too much time on my hands I guess). I don't have an 11x17 printer handy to test but they should be to scale now.
Let me know what you think.
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Very AWESOME work... I'm impressed..!
(https://media.giphy.com/media/l2Sqir5ZxfoS27EvS/giphy.gif)
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i know this guy, has a Global engine ona LEXL, i didnt get a close look at the heads.
maybe Scat?
Dan_,
Plz show best thread for cutting crankshaft, a have Carr twin plans, wanting to put thrust bearing #2 position(near cut).
Thx Thanks Thank you!
Theo
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That would prolly be here:
https://www.eaglersnest.com/forum/index.php?topic=80.msg571#msg571 (https://www.eaglersnest.com/forum/index.php?topic=80.msg571#msg571)
Video starts talking about crank at about 10:40...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bS3hUbvI6uY?t=640
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Thank you Dan,
we plan to use single thrust B at #2
next question for the experts,
Reduction drive on two cycl VW? I dont care about weight, EAB
https://lonestarhovercraft.com/product/predator-22-hp-belt-reduction-and-propeller/
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The PSRU makes a real motor out of the 1/2 VW according to a phone call I made to Larry Smith of Valley Engineering.
You cannot (must not) use one without electric start... Larry broke his thumb.
As you might imagine, the re-drive causes the pistons to "hit" multiple times during the normal hand prop swing. By that time you may have lost a finger.
Raising the rpm will cause more heat to have to be dissipated, so one would need to keep an eye on CHT etc.
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yep dat 1 of da first ting i wa wonderin.
Can you even hand start a redrive? less weight without starter and flywheel, will convert to electronic ignition and fuel injection(Kohler, Duetz, honda, chinese etc.)
Iknow(gear head Ted)) lol.
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If I used them I would definitely want a CHT gauge.
CHT is the ONLY gauge you need on an oilcooled Part 103.
(Okay, I also have a smiley face wing level centered under it and a ball in tube pressure (airspeed) indicator on the right strut.)
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Most VW experts say an oil temperature and oil pressure gauge are also needed. I would not fly without them.
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IMHO they add data, not actionable information, too much data can obfuscate information.
A CHT gauge rapidly gives you actionable information, as you can adjust throttle and mixture-- crudely through the choke if you have a mechanical one.
It's true that over a time (by which your aluminum alloy heads-- which sit right on top of the source of all that heat that eventually gets to your oil-- become toast) that high oil temperatures destroy oil's lubricating quality. But, without an oil cooler all you can do to lower oil temp is what you would have done anyway with the CHT.
Unless you forgot to check the engine oil level.
You can tell all you need to know about your oil before you lift off by pulling the dipstick and touching the oil. Smell (overheated oil smells burnt), carbon level (color and grit), viscosity (slipperyness), fuel contamination (thin, gasoline feeling and smell indicates blowby and a short future ring life).
Oh, and level, (I can't tell you how many yay-hoos I see who apparently don't know they have a dipstick.) Lack of sufficient oil being the primary reason for both high temperature (at normal operating speeds) and low pressure.
It's an airplane, so we can't run it to failure and pull over on a cloud. The pump should be checked with a feeler gauge and the goop cleaned out of the sump at annual...
You do annual right?
So the galleys are clear and pressure plugs can function.
Numbers-- like forward airspeed-- are irrelevant. There is (or there isn't) sufficient air pressure to stay aloft, and in a 350 pound craft you can feel it if you try to (something that the FAA forgot when they approved glass panels). When the forces balance out it's all smooth. You get there when you get there. Knowing the arbitrary number distracts from the wonder and the experience of flight. It doesn't add anything.
Just grandma's $0.02 worth.
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Wow
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I hope you didn't take offence, I rub people the wrong way sometimes. I soloed in my dad's J-3 back in '75. Before our first lesson he took rubber cement and scraps of notebook paer and covered the five instruments* on the panel so I wouldn't look at 'em. (Post-it notes were still in the future.) "Aviate, navigate, communicate," he said. (But there was no electrical system and no radio, so communication wasn't very high on the list.)
*RPM, Compass, Wing Level, Non Sensitive Altimeter, CHT. (A stall horn and Airspeed were on the struts.)
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Not offended, astounded by all the info.
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IMHO they add data, not actionable information, too much data can obfuscate information.
A CHT gauge rapidly gives you actionable information, as you can adjust throttle and mixture-- crudely through the choke if you have a mechanical one.
It's true that over a time (by which your aluminum alloy heads-- which sit right on top of the source of all that heat that eventually gets to your oil-- become toast) that high oil temperatures destroy oil's lubricating quality. But, without an oil cooler all you can do to lower oil temp is what you would have done anyway with the CHT.
Unless you forgot to check the engine oil level.
You can tell all you need to know about your oil before you lift off by pulling the dipstick and touching the oil. Smell (overheated oil smells burnt), carbon level (color and grit), viscosity (slipperyness), fuel contamination (thin, gasoline feeling and smell indicates blowby and a short future ring life).
Oh, and level, (I can't tell you how many yay-hoos I see who apparently don't know they have a dipstick.) Lack of sufficient oil being the primary reason for both high temperature (at normal operating speeds) and low pressure.
It's an airplane, so we can't run it to failure and pull over on a cloud. The pump should be checked with a feeler gauge and the goop cleaned out of the sump at annual...
You do annual right?
So the galleys are clear and pressure plugs can function.
Numbers-- like forward airspeed-- are irrelevant. There is (or there isn't) sufficient air pressure to stay aloft, and in a 350 pound craft you can feel it if you try to. (That's something that the FAA forgot when they approved glass panels.) When the forces balance out it's all smooth. You get there when you get there. Knowing the arbitrary number distracts from the wonder and the experience of flight. It doesn't add anything.
Just grandma's $0.02 worth.