Eagler's Nest
General Category => Builders logs => Topic started by: pappyadkins on January 01, 2021, 05:54:12 PM
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Here's the link to the playlist:
https://youtube.com/playlist?list=PLQJ4PdLg1HhIjizdwjRzulc6B1alf8kPB
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First Video
https://youtu.be/qhqPEH6f7zA
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2nd Video
https://youtu.be/q9bOtl4k8bY
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Cool videos! What part of Texas are you in? Im in Central Texas. Not building right now, but I love this airplane and would love to build one one day.
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Thanks. Im close to Athens, actually between Athens and Tyler. Good luck when you start the build. Keep in touch and I’ll help any way I can. Had things come up and the weather, hope to get back at it soon and I’ll try to share more videos soon.
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Thanks for the videos. I have yet to build but I thought if I documented my build that I would put emphasis on how I built more than what I built. I see you did the same. The addition of a little backstory and your decision-making bring a personal feeling to the work. Good job. I feel like I am in your shop.
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Thanks Tom. Yeah I figured there’s plenty of how to’s out there, so I just wanted to show the tricks that I tried more than anything. Thanks again, glad you liked them. Hopefully I’ll get going soon and have more videos soon.
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Third Video
https://youtu.be/pHOteXCSbzc
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Third Video
https://youtu.be/pHOteXCSbzc
N i c e! Steve
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4th Video
https://youtu.be/ICSAby6Ci28
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5th Video
https://youtu.be/F9CAIQPgsZw
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6th Video
https://youtu.be/ppO_RQoayEI
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7th Video
https://youtu.be/KFfEa3aLSc8
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OK, after my annual flying, I'm motivated.... Fuse here I come... (Having difficulties uploading pix; but if you were there you'd know what I mean...)
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Over 3800 views here in the group...Over 7100 views on YouTube with over 450 subscribers, I'm humbled! I never would have thought 50 people would've watched my videos! All I ever wanted to do is show others, it can be done... I just wanted to update those that have reached out to me, THANK YOU! for the encouragement, I love being part of this family... I'm working on Video #8 right now, hopefully soon... We got Leonard's Legal Eagle's 25th Anniversary fly-in on June 10th @ his hanger - just 11 days... Can't wait... Hope to see ya there!
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Here's the long overdue 8th Video... Hopefully more coming soon...
https://youtu.be/Waax0mu8V6I
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Here's the 9th video - Tacking the Fuse Part 1
https://youtu.be/TgQQ40azJCo
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Here's the 10th Video... Fuse is Tacked! Part 2
https://youtu.be/vJ4MyQIm4fI
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First off THANK YOU! THANK YOU! THANK YOU! Kamcoman77... And I'm serious about that... I had originally thought about mounting them more near the top & I like the way you did that in your picture... But then I ran into the SFI Foundation (Motorsports Safety something or another) And according to SFI SPECIFICATION it stated -10 degree is the optimal angle for support... So please don't take this as argumentative cause I'm on the fence here too! And I value your opinion as well... I'm just not sure... I was planning on discussing this in a future video too, so please send me any supporting data, cause logically your take seems to make sense to me!!! I've seen several builder's have it high like that & several that mount it even with or slightly below the shoulders... So here's my plea with the group... Please keep it civil but add your thoughts (especially cite documents if you can - I'll try to compile the data & present the findings back to the group... Of course we all hope we'll never need the seatbelt, but it'd be comforting to know if we did, it'd be mounted to our best interest!!! As far as y'alls fuselages, it really isn't that complicated... Just take your time with the angle grinder, small bits till it fits! The tighter the joints, the easier to weld & stronger the fuse will be! GOOD LUCK!!!! If I can answer any questions, reach out to me...
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Here's what I found..
https://www.eaglersnest.com/forum/index.php?topic=2197.600
page 41
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Cool little article I found on Leonards 25 years celebration at Oshkosh this year...
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Here's the 11th Video... Let's talk Tail Wheels!
https://youtu.be/KIjaIuId2as
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Nice video! Please post what spring you used. I did not see that listed in the video.
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Thanks for the question, I forgot to put it in the video... The spring you see in the video is way too soft, but same basic measurements... Based on Les' Video he suggest the '9620K41' spring from McMaster-Carr... I haven't ordered it yet, I'm going to try & find the springs for the front landing gear as well... their shipping will be the same for 3 springs as the 1... Hope that helps...
9620K41 is a compression spring that 2.5" long with an ID of 0.719". It's max load is 103.5 lbs & is rated for 220 lbs.
I'll try to remember to update on next video...
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Thanks for the info. I think I'll wait until you get your spring to see how it works before ordering mine. I'm starting out with no springs on my main gear, just low pressure balloon tires. If I bend something, I can always add the springs later.
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You & I are on the same page... I'm thinking same thing... My plan is to start off with rigid arms & big tires... but will probably go ahead and order front springs... I may try to land with both & see if it makes a lot of difference... sounds like another future video... lol
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I'm using the 9620K41 spring, and Goldilocks says it's just right. :)
The mains are a blue spring, 9537K81.
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I'm using the 9620K41 spring, and Goldilocks says it's just right. :)
The mains are a blue spring, 9537K81.
Thanks Chuck. Can't find 9537K81 but maybe you meant 9573K81... OK, I've updated with all info I could find, this should help those interested in buying their springs (at least for now)...
I reached out to Leeco spring to find their No. 14714 & those don't seem available, the first thing Matt said to me, you must be building an airplane... (I've copied the last message below from him - What wonderful customer service!!!)... I also added some info from Les' post... Here goes...
Reply from Leeco Springs, "The second item you're looking for is 13708. Those are $12.29ea but a little different situation. Die springs aren't something we manufacture, rather, we resell them. We make many other types of springs, though. We would have a minimum buy of 10 pieces of p/n 13708 because I don't have them in stock.
I'm talking myself out of a sale, but these are equivalent to what you're looking for, cheaper and without a minimum...
14714 sub... [Front Landing Gear (~$20 x2) Part # 9584K84]
https://www.mcmaster.com/products/die-springs/length~3-1-2/for-shaft-diameter~3-4/color~red/
13708 sub... [Tail Wheel (~$10 x1) Part # 9573K81 - this was based on info I gave from Les' older post]
https://www.mcmaster.com/products/die-springs/for-shaft-diameter~3-4/length~2/color~blue/
Front Springs Info:
Leeco Spring (from Plans)
Part # 104-714 (Raymond Medium Heavy Duty Die Spring)
Hole Dia 1 1/2"
Rod Dia 3/4"
Free Length 3 1/2"
Load @ 1/10" 52.8#
Optimum Life (20% of Free Length) 369.6 # @ 0.70" deflection
Optimum Life (25% of Free Length) 462.0 # @ 0.88" deflection
Max Operating (30% of Free Length) 554.4 # @ 1.05" deflection
Max Deflection (37% of Free Length) 1.30" deflection
McMaster-Carr (Substitute) :) :) :) :)
Part # 9584K84 Red Medium to Heavy load chrome-silicone steel die spring
1.5" hole did, .75 rod 3.5" long
Max load 567# at 30% deflection 2.45" long
Rate per inch deflection 528 lbs.
Mcmaster Carr (possibly what Chuck used for front springs, based on his post April 2021)
Part # 9573K81 Medium load chrome-silicone steel die spring
1.5" hole, .75 rod 2" long
Max load 424# at 40% deflection 1.2" long
Rate per inch deflection 530 lbs.
Rear Spring Info:
Mcmaster Carr (from Les' post Dec 2018)
Part # 9573K81 Medium load chrome-silicone steel die spring
1.5" hole, .75 rod 2" long
Max load 424# at 40% deflection 1.2" long
Rate per inch deflection 530 lbs.
Next Heavier spring (from Les' post Dec 2018),
Fastenal
Part # 0344843
Rate per 1/10" deflection 60.3#
Mcmaster Carr (from Chuck & Les video Sept 2020)(I believe this is the final pick from Les) :) :) :) :)
Part # 9620K41 Medium load chrome-silicone steel die spring
1.031" hole, .719 rod 2.5" long
It's max load is 103.5 lbs & is rated for 220 lbs.
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Thanks Chuck. Can't find 9537K81 but maybe you meant 9573K81...
Oops.. :)
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Here's the 12th Video... Let's talk a little more Tail Wheels & springs needed!
https://youtu.be/5fQdu5erV9c
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Here's the 13th Video... Let's talk Tail feathers!
https://youtu.be/Ic31wMFodR0
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Here's the 14th Video...
ADCO Aviation - Legal Eagle XL Ultralight Aircraft Build Series 14 - Tail Section (Part 2)
https://youtu.be/09KOJgMYEjs
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I Loves me them videos...
(https://media.giphy.com/media/3XR0chfiSTtAI/giphy.gif)
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Here's the 15th Video... Here's my 10 once Seat...
ADCO Aviation - Legal Eagle XL Ultralight Aircraft Build Series 15 - Seat
https://youtu.be/xuPZ61JXxuE
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Yeah, first time I looked at the seat design I thought "That lattice structure has the same amount of aluminum as a solid sheet."
Maybe it conforms better, being separate pieces that can pivot a little at the rivets.
The plans seat is theoretically very strong, but if it started to fail in a crash, say due to uneven loading, it seems like to could cut you to pieces like a cheese grater.
For comparison, at 36"x18" the plans seat is half a square yard, while something like 1000D Cordura nylon w/DWR coating weighs 11oz/sqyd.
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Here's the 16th Video... Let's discuss landing gear and wing mounting brackets...
https://youtu.be/00EF2BoHacE
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Here's the 17th Video...
ADCO Aviation - Legal Eagle XL Ultralight Aircraft Build Series 17 - Dash & Throttle
https://youtu.be/qXqkk5eXqfw
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Here's the 18th Video...
ADCO Aviation - Legal Eagle XL Ultralight Aircraft Build Series 18 - Control Stick
https://youtu.be/l78wB1cUfHY
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On page 23 of my build thread, I give locations of the stick pivot point and how high the bolt needs to be for full elevator travel. Fore and aft is fairly fussy, or you won't have enough elevator travel by the time the stick hits the seat tubing. Don't ask me how I know.. :)
(https://static.imgzeit.com/large/373b6337d5d37532/IMG_20210701_114635213.jpg)
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Thanks Chuck... As always, I've gotten a lot of helpful info from you... I haven't riveted the ends on the cross tube yet for this same reason... I figured I'd test all movement before I finalize it... BTW, I searched your build & couldn't find the info you described... Page 23 had a few post of receiving your engine but mainly your wing build... It appears you've "reversed" (newest post first), but I've even checked the 1st 6 or 7 pages... Anyways, I believe we're close to the 4" mark as well... If you don't mind, what is the angle/throw up & down of your elevator & rudder? Thanks in advance...
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Weird.. here's page 23 and it's on there.
https://www.eaglersnest.com/forum/index.php?topic=2197.330
From memory..the rudder stops are set to keep it from interfering with the elevators. I'd have to take my sweetie out in the cold to hold the stick while I measured..or.. it is probably in the thread. I'll skim through it.
Edit: Couldn't stand it.. just ran out to the hanger and used the angle finder on my phone. :) Approximately 26 degrees up and 20 down.
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Here's the 19th Video...
ADCO Aviation - Legal Eagle XL Ultralight Aircraft Build Series 19 - Floorboard & Firewall
https://youtu.be/TqTKnP9oQEM
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Like and Subscribe to this channel or you ain't got a hair...
:emoji_u1f60a:
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Thanks Dan... It's wild, We hit 500 subscribers while at Osh this year, now I think where up near 770, can we hit 1000? Who knows... I can't believe there's over 700 interested in what I've got to say... :) Truely Thanks again Dan!
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Here's the 20th Video, lets start the Landing Gear...
https://youtu.be/71yxaCMgibE
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Here's the 21st Video, lets finish the Landing Gear... I'm pretty sure when we "finish" our fuse, we're half way there... Those gear pieces seemed to take forever... lol
https://youtu.be/iJ8j9f-A-Dc
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Here's the 22nd video, Rudder Pedals... Today let's see how many mods we can make to these small little parts....
https://youtu.be/o7HT4bAu_AE
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Here's the 23rd video... moving along; covered the nose & started some folding wing pieces...
https://youtu.be/qSRVFI148UQ
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Here's the 24th video, Folding Tail Brackets...
https://youtu.be/wJgO9rGq-Ho
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I started with my shoulder harness mounted low. Liked it there it many people complained so I moved them high. They restricted my movements and resulted in landings not so good. Moved to middle of tube and decided to ignore all comments. Works good but I know if very heavy nose impact will bend.
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Yes, almost as bad as discussing welding within group :) - I'm at 5 degrees downward which the FAA suggest no more than that... but I know Leonard prefers from above... not too worried about it, so I'm sure I'll be in the same boat as you... Can't wait to see ya at your fly-in in a month or so... Hope you're doing well...
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How about a cable from the tube attachment point to another cluster. There could be a "centering cable" ran from side to side clusters and a branch from there to keep the pull in line...
Just a thought that would add some weight, but solve the bending concern... :emoji_u1f62f:
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Just my two cents worth, if you hit in such a way to bend the tube, doubt you're worried about that tube being bent... I do understand those that are concerned with spine compression; but as I said before, as long as we stay above the -5 degree & below 30 degrees (as the FAA states in AC_21-34, pix attached), I'd guess we'd be ok...
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More on the folding tail...
https://youtu.be/UuEy5jcm-YU
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Let's discuss the issues with a fuel tank when folding the wings...
https://youtu.be/cVlGuAI3fU8
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I think your idea is excellent. What do you plan to make your tank with? I made a wing tank using 1/4" Divinycell (Klegacell) foam with a fiberglass covering. If you do build a foam tank, be sure to use Vinyl-Ester resin. It is much more alcohol resistant than epoxy. Since I will be using auto gas, it may contain some Ethanol, so I have to be careful what resin I use. Nice thing about the foam tank is making odd shapes is easy.
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Hi, Keith.. I'm thinking about a tank or tanks for the Pietenpol I'm building. Is there a source for all this stuff? I fought a pin hole leak that I couldn't find on the aluminum tank on Bullet for entirely too long. :)
Yeah, I know.. it's sacrilegious to use modern stuff on a Piet..
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I bought the Rutan FG, Divinycell foam, flox, and vinylester resin from Aircraft Spruce. The foam is closed-cell and gas proof, but I coated the tank interior with ve resin and sealed all the joints with a ve resin/flox mix. Only the outside of the tank is covered with fg. No leaks, so far. The flox is milled cotton fibers so it adds a little strength to all the fillets.
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Here's the requested Updated XL Material List that I put together...
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Today's update I discuss AN hardware...
https://youtu.be/D2FHk8jSaKY
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A builder friend just helped me realize the whole section for the wood needed was somehow removed, so here ya go...
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The firewall & starting the crimp...
https://youtu.be/0dUa2ZnO8aM
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Let's Start Painting, Latex?
https://youtu.be/NvpLNVcykdQ
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I just realized I never saw y'alls comments/questions about my fuel tank... Well truth be told I haven't got that far yet... Leaning towards making cardboard or foam 'plug' & fiber glassing over it; but just not sure yet... Hopefully, I'll have to start thinking more about it soon though, just dug out the wings & will get to start figuring out the whole final rigging - then the fuel tank... I know I still have a lot to do before hand; but still, hopefully won't be long.... I'll look at the Klegacell before I make any major decisions... Had thought about Aluminum, but after my fuse - nope not even going to attempt to tig aluminum... :)
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Painting & designing the Iron Cross
https://youtu.be/eR_qNwC9wo4
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Let's build a High Performance Antenna...
https://youtu.be/lWK9iNBUW1A
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Let's Rig the Folding Tail Feathers
https://youtu.be/fQepjKqHH_E
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Let's finish up that folding Tail, elevator, rudder & tail wheel hookup
https://youtu.be/qP04WnxnZUw
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I really like your fabricated rudder stop. Very inventive!
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Let's slop some Latex... Painting of the wings...
https://youtu.be/tYZBGMON21k
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Let mount those wings to the fuselage & setup the 3 inch dihedral...
https://youtu.be/JV2n9x2lEyw
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Let's discuss the folding of the XL wings... Hopefully I'll give you some food for thought on the subject... Also, we hit 1000 subscribers - Thank you all...
https://youtu.be/b1ap3DjSL0E
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Congrats on the subscribers!! (and your build... ::) )
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Let's add ailerons...
https://youtu.be/PDVE5eIQUKU
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Throttle design
https://youtu.be/kA9SiPPQQcU
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I hope y'all had a great Thanksgiving! Today, let's update antenna builds & start the discussion of wiring our Eagles...
https://youtu.be/cNibVWOjOac
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Today, let's finish the cockpit wiring... It's been kinda quiet, guess we're all busy with the holidays...
https://youtu.be/MOrvJIoqff4
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TinyTach, what about replacing the non-replaceable battery?
https://youtu.be/RYG5BXKvhpY
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Attaboy! :) One thing I found with the Tiny Tack is you have to isolate the sense wire from the rest of your electrical system. I had given up on getting it to work with the Verner and installed an expensive tach. I was trouble shooting something elst and just for grins hooked up the tiny tack by temporilary running the wire down the other side of the cockpit, and it worked perfectly. ::)
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Putting the sense wire inside a tinned copper braiding except for the tiny portion around your spark plug wire also works. Found that out years ago with my outboard motors.
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I replaced one of my TinyTach's internal batteries with an external battery pack using two AA alkaline batteries in series. Been going several years so far, but if the AA batts die, easy to replace them.
This post also reminded me of our issues with TinyTachs on DE Stubby and LEU Treehugger. I found my write-up and several other posts on TinyTach and similar units at ----> https://www.eaglersnest.com/forum/index.php?topic=1885.msg12771#msg12771
On Stubby, I finally replaced the gas type TinyTach with a diesel type electronic tach (not a TinyTach unit, but don't know mfg, from ebay, $15). It uses a magnet attached to the prop hub, and has a sensor that is mounted to pick up the rotating magnet. It has an internal battery. So far, it works flawlessly.
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Good Morning.
I am also in the process of building a XL. I am up here in MN, so it gets a little cold now to be working on my fuselage. I hope to move by table from the garage to the basement to work on my wings. I am very close to having one side ready to be built.
Monte
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Today, let's add or BlackMax wheels & brakes...
https://youtu.be/P6s2r0a8AFc
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Wouldn't sliding the axle farther into the carrier tube be stronger?
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Good comment... the axle would have to be cut off to go in further, which could be done fairly easy.... The plans said there should be 4.75" of shaft from the inward end to the center of the woodruff key, which is probably 'stock' & what I have - but only about 3" of the tube it goes into... Great comment & thoughts...
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Seeing this old photo is what prompted the comment. Yours is definitely not this extreme.
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No it's not... BUT on my next one, I will 'perfect' this for sure... lol we could easily make that bottom tube 1 inch or so longer and still have the legs to the outside, making a stronger 'ankle' - great call out... I can even chop the axle down 1 inch & redrill - but then my wheelbase would be 2 inches narrower... hmmmmmmm
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Today, let's finish up the BlackMax brakes...
https://youtu.be/TjUzZtH0CIQ
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Today, let's talk about Antenna ideas....
https://youtu.be/0xeVVBKxL4M
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I like this design for the LE much better than the "V" antenna. Should work fine even w/o a balun or farrite bead. Have the same antenna on my sonex and it tunes nicely. Be sure to have a good connection to the airframe for the ground. Also, you might find that just tuning for the center frequency to be easier than checking both ends (though double check the ends once you think it's tuned). In reality an ultralight will not likely ever need to use the freqencies near the ends. If you cut it too short it's possible to just solder a bit of wire on the end. Not pretty but it works.
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Thanks Brock, yes the 'center' washer (w/3/8" hole will be replaced with the 'D' shape tab welded to the fuse) & I have the star lock washer to help dig in & 'ground' the antenna... As far as tunning to the center - that's what I had to do since my meter wouldn't go to the low end! Great comments, thanks for following... I was hoping to communicate with the F16's... NOT! lol yep I agree most of us will be mid range... Thanks again...
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Today, let's think about propellers...
https://youtu.be/YkUVqo4ftbU
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Two Legal Eagle builders I know have purchased GSC props. One of them is flying and is very happy with it. The other has been test run on the fuselage. Both engines are Scott Casler 45 hp 1/2 VW's. GSC seems to be the only wood prop maker that can currently provide a prop in a reasonable amount of time. I have an Ed Sterba (retired) prop, but if I need another, I will definitely buy GSC.
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Nyloc nuts are fine.
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I carved my own prop.
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Wayne, I sure was tempted... maybe someday...
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My duplicator is a little more hi tech but does the same thing.
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I had received a quote from Prince back in December 2024. Here is what they had to say about a prop for the 3VLA engine.
Thank you so very much for the inquiry we have manufactured many propellers for this engine but few for the 42 hp. Calculating for a Full Throttle Level Flight of 60 mph, 42 hp @ 2500 rpm the propeller size will be 67" diameter 29" pitch. The cost for our Wood P-TIP Propeller will be $1163.00. For the Better Performance Most Durable Carbon Fiber P-TIP propeller $1652.00. Optional Leading Edge Protection for either propeller will be $161.00. The propeller size can be adjusted for diameter size should it be longer than ground clearance allow.
The current delivery time is 10 months. A quick delivery option is available, 90 business day delivery with an increase cost of 50%.
BTW - I fly a Prince P-tip on a Sonex, it's been a very nice prop.
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... prop carver so I can duplicate ... video
Enjoyed the video. Had no idea how simple (though labor intensive) making a prop could be. Thanks
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Update: my prop was shipped from Canada Wednesday (basically 1 week lead time) & is in the US (Oregon)... YEAH!!!! Can't wait to get it...
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Today's Update: Seat Belt & Battery Charging Port...
https://youtu.be/fq91b3upj3E
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I see you chose a nice AGM battery. What factors helped you choose that battery over a LiFePO which is likely 7 lbs less?
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Brock, short answer... tried & tested... I would like to do some testing on Lithiums as well... maybe upgrade some day... I think it would be so nice if we could use 'standard' tool battery... just think from a charging standpoint on a crosscountry...
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... 'standard' tool battery...
I'm not sure what you mean by 'tool battery'. I get visions of the battery in my cordless drill. I use EarthX batteries in two planes. They work well but you cannot think of them in terms of the AGM/lead-acid. My expirence is that they charger (low internal resistence) very fast. So in both cases I have to charge at idle for a few minutes. One plane easily charges at a rate of 55amps (on a 60 am alternator) & the max rated charge current on the battery is 60 amps. While the other, charge rate will easily exceed the capacity of the alternator and burn out the stator (have pics to prove it). So charge management is in order. The good thing is that it takes only about 4 minutes to get charged to where the current drops. This happens to be how long it take my oil to get to operating temp.
I don't know anything about the alternator in the Verners and suspect the .5 VW's use a variety of alternators/generators. So proceeding carefully until the system is understood is in order.
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Setting the washout on the wings....
https://youtu.be/GqVSjw8q8hs
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Short clip on building the aileron bellcranks....
https://youtu.be/rWYizMDKiho
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Great job on all your videos! Just started my build this year and have found them very helpful working through the plans/drawings from Leonard. My fuselage is almost complete just waiting to see how your tank modification unfolds as I'll be trailering also. But no rush, starting the tail today . . . it's a long and fun road ahead. Thank you!
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Thanks Rick... They are there for y'all for sure... If you have questions, don't hesitate to reach out to myself or the group...
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I trailer with mine and have the tank in the wing per the plans. I mounted a quick-connect to the fuel line just after leaving the tank. After flight and before disassembly, I disconnected the fuel line from the tank to the engine at the quick-connect and then attach a fuel drain line that runs down to a fuel jug. By the time I get the tail and first wing disassembled, it is usually drained and ready for me to remove the wing with the tank in it. The drain line I use has the same quick-connect fitting, so I can switch between them easily. The quick-connect fittings I use are one of those no-leak connectors than when disconnected, do not allow fluid to flow, so no mess from that.
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Thanks Chris, great comment... things are constantly changing from 'our original perfect ideas' lol - I'm currently looking for the quick disconnects (like you're speaking of) - Where did you get yours?????
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Thanks Rick... They are there for y'all for sure... If you have questions, don't hesitate to reach out to myself or the group...
Thank you Pappy! You are very generous.
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I trailer with mine and have the tank in the wing per the plans. I mounted a quick-connect to the fuel line just after leaving the tank. After flight and before disassembly, I disconnected the fuel line from the tank to the engine at the quick-connect and then attach a fuel drain line that runs down to a fuel jug. By the time I get the tail and first wing disassembled, it is usually drained and ready for me to remove the wing with the tank in it. The drain line I use has the same quick-connect fitting, so I can switch between them easily. The quick-connect fittings I use are one of those no-leak connectors than when disconnected, do not allow fluid to flow, so no mess from that.
Chris, Your routine seems like a very easy solution, even with a folded wing setup an empty aluminum tank should not weigh much at all, so little added stress on the wing support tube. Thank you!
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Chris, I'm also interested in what quick disconnect you are using and where you got it. tks DA
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Sorry for the delays on the updates, today, let's build our aileron guides for the rear struts...
https://youtu.be/j1ou6766MoE
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Pappy, certainly no offense intended, but on your pivot bolts for the aileron linkage, you have a standard AN365 lock nut. Where a castellated nut and cotter pin is required is "Subject to rotation." That bolt is able to rotate, and needs to be cotter pinned like so..
(https://static.imgzeit.com/reduced/4eaceae79ad9e3d2/20230207_141521.jpg)
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I also made a delrin spacer to keep anything from interfering and not having to bend the arm. Here's the finished assembly.
(https://static.imgzeit.com/reduced/94ab95ac7e08d9ec/20250510_165734.jpg)
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No offense ever Chuck! You are correct about any bolt that can pivot... I think I've mentioned that before even... I'm waiting on hardware order as we speak... Thanks for looking out for us - Thanks for all your input in the community for sure!!!
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Today let's discuss the lower end of the aileron controls...
https://youtu.be/XfwF_HlH4VY