Eagler's Nest
Airframes => Double Seaters => DE => Topic started by: DA Miller on May 06, 2022, 05:14:24 PM
-
What a Dummy! this is how I should have asked the Stewart System question.
-
How?
-
I'm really a dumb dummy. Keith back in 2020 you posted that when you were ready to cover, you would do some tests with ecobond to see how well it stuck to the tail feather ribs to determine if rib stitching would be required. Did you ever perform these tests? What were the results. Thanks for your help/
-
I see where you answered my question. Thanks. I think I'll finish this pipe of medicinal weed befor I post again. :grin:
-
Did my answer provide enough information? I did not put sticky back tape over all rivets on horizontal surfaces. I added the rivets after I had already covered them. Adding sticky back over all the rivets leaves a bumpy surface, but I thought the rudder would see a lot of hangar rash if I did not reinforce everything real well. I may put short 1" wide pinked tape strips over the rivets on my horizontal parts so the fabric won't rub through easily. I used the neutral Fastbond with a few drops of yellow food coloring so I could see where I put it. I did not like the green because it might be hard to cover with my planned yellow paint scheme.
-
Yes and your follow up certainly described the process. I especially liked adding the lemon food coloring to the neutral glue for better visibility. However, I believe your answer to my question is that you will not rely only on glue to secure the fabric. I always wanted to learn how to rib stitch so I'll rib stitch my tail feathers. Thanks again. DA
-
I plan to rib stich my wing ribs, at least outboard to rib #7. Probably use about 4-inch spacing.
-
I was wondering about that. I wonder what the other users of the Stewart system have done? Maybe some of them will tell us. I hope.
-
Stewart systems does make ekobond in a linen color, if one does not like the green. I have used on upholstery projects on Beavers And Otters where the green would not look very good.
-
I did not rib stitch my LEXL. I tacked each rib first using the Stewart System and a model airplane iron. Then using a house hold iron shrank the rest of the material at 250 deg. Painted the wing with exterior house paint thinned 25% with water (two cross coats). Been flying it for five years and no delimitation from ribs. You Tube line here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jF9sWye4dYI
-
Here is a better youtube link. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v5chb_LPxb4
-
Charles, thank you for your real life input. I believe most of this concern started with Sam Bucanan's (spelling?) Post suggesting rib stitching the Vertical stabilizer since it had some long unsupported stretches of fabric. I don't think he suggested rib stitching any other flight surfaces. Also I believe the situation is exacerbated by the higher hp engines
-
I also noticed after the fact that this post is on the DE page. The forces are more on the DE vs LEXL so use good judgment and follow Leonard's recommendations.
-
Yes, Double Eagle is a faster airplane and rib stitching is probably recommended. DA Miller's profile shows XL so it's a yes/no/maybe situation.
-
Rib stitching isn't so bad.. it's laying the tapes that drives me crazy trying to get them straight, etc. :) That said, I'll just glue the fabric on the ribs and be done with it on this project.
-
I think I'll only rib stitch the vertical stabilizer and the rudder. The wings and horizontal tail surfaces will get Stewart glue only. I plan to keep an eye on those surfaces during early flights. That is if I live long enough to get to that stage of the LE-XL build ::)