Steve, the Eagleman stud looks great ,but I don't have access to a lathe nor do I have the skills to fabricate. IS THERE A SUPPLY OF THESE FROM JOE?
STEVE, I TRIED TO CONTACT JOE BUT THAT BUSINESS IS NO LONGER IN SERVICE.They give a ph# on FB... However it may be what you tried already.
They give a ph# on FB... However it may be what you tried already.
YES, THAT IS THE NUMBER I CALLED. I PURCHASED SOME GRADE #8 METRIC BOLTS #10, 2 INCHES LONG WITH COURSE THREAD. I'LL SEE IF THEY BOTTOM OUT ON THE TWO BOTTOM ENGINE BOLT HOLES.
DO I NEED TO INSTALL THEM WITH RED OR BLUE LOC TIGHT?? OR SOME SORT OF THREAD LOCK?
DO I NEED TO INSTALL THEM WITH RED OR BLUE LOC TIGHT?? OR SOME SORT OF THREAD LOCK?
I just witness marked them as you will be adjusting them for a while: http://www.chiefaircraft.com/torque-seal-r.html
I WENT TO THE WEB SITE ABOVE BUT THEY WANT A $20 MIN ORDER. I'LL CHECK OUT AIRCRAFT SPRUCE.
Just curious....WHERE does the threaded part of your bolts end/start? IF you are going to have a bolt fail, it will most likely fail in the threaded part...
I would swap those bolts out for AN bolts and have the threaded part as close to the nut as possible....
The bottom holes might need to be re-threaded with a Heli-coil to close up the gap. THAT's why I used studs on the bottom and put the nuts inside the cabin for those two and safety wired them. I double-nutted the top two. I also removed that steel insert on the right top engine mount hole...
Bob
BOB, THANKS I DIDN'T THINK ABOUT THE THREADED PORTION INSIDE THE BUBBER SHOCK MOUNTS. WHAT IF I PURCHASED A LONGER BOLT AND CUT OFF THE THREADS TO MAKE THE BOLT SHORTER W/LONGER SHAFT and leave enough threads to screw into the block? THAT WAY I WOULDN'T HAVE TO INSTALL HELI-COILS. I HAVE NEVER DONE HELI-COILS.
I HAVE ABOUT 1 1/2" OF SHAFT ON A 2 3/4" LONG BOLT, AND 1 3/4" OF SHAFT ON A 3" BOLT. SINCE THE TWO RUBBER SHOCK MOUNTS AND TWO LARGE AREA WASHERS ARE A TOTAL OF 2" LONG, I WOULD NEED A 3 1/8" LONG BOLT AND CUT OFF 1/2" OF THREAD TO AVOID INSTALLING HELI-COILS.
I tried to buy grade #5, 10 mm, 2 3/4 inch bolts at NAPA but they only carried grade #8. I'll have to find another source. Here are some pictures using the wrong bolts.
I just stripped out both engine mount holes on the bottom of my engine block.how deep did you go with the bolt?
I carefully ran a tap 3/4 inch into each hole, then cut each bolt to 2 3/4" to make sure they would't bottom out. But, the bolts only turned in about three or four threads.
Is there a tightening pattern that would keep me from drawing up one side more than the other, thus causing the bolts to enter the block at an incorrect angle?
I tapped out each hole in the block with a metric course thread tap before trying to install the engine to make sure I had 3/4" depth and screwed a bolt into each hole. Just a dumb operator error! I think the problem was compressing the rubber mounts onto the bolt using a nut which made it difficult to turn the bolt by hand thus not being able to feel whether the threads were engaged properly. Plus not paying attention to the angle of the block as I was drawing it in as I thighened the bolts.I carefully ran a tap 3/4 inch into each hole, then cut each bolt to 2 3/4" to make sure they would't bottom out. But, the bolts only turned in about three or four threads.
Is there a tightening pattern that would keep me from drawing up one side more than the other, thus causing the bolts to enter the block at an incorrect angle?
Strikes me there is a mismatch between the tap thread & bolt... Drill & tap some scrap material to figure it out... Remember - those are metric holes in the case... Discuss your findings with Leonard - you need a pro opinion on this...
I bought a heli-coil kit from my local auto-parts house and the tap supplied followed the threads in the case quite well with no special tools or alignment... one MUST TRY to be as square as possible at any rate... Follow the instructions on the Heli-Coil Kit....How did you make sure the new holes were perpendicular to the block?
I did the exact same thing trying to screw my bolts in the bottom two holes.....that's why I had to Heli-Coil them... then I went to studs in the bottom two mount holes!Where did you get the studs?
I think i"ll have to buy some of those studs if I could find out where to buy them.Lower case studs:
Cassler recommends picking out the factory heli-coil and drilling 1/2" hole and inserting a case saver. It is a steel shaft that is threaded inside and outside for repairing screw-ups like mine. He said that I should have the full 3/4" of thread for mounting bolts.
I am going to bite the bullet and buy the Timesert repair kit for $100 as Leonard recommends. They have a very detailed video on how to do the work. I keep saying I WOULDN'T BE ABLE TO FINISH THIS AIRPLANE WITHOUT YOU GUY. It takes a village ……yada, yada, yada..
So far the prices on Amazon are the same. The kits on Amazon don't include the alignment tool which they offer for extra. Amounts to same price.I am going to bite the bullet and buy the Timesert repair kit for $100 as Leonard recommends. They have a very detailed video on how to do the work. I keep saying I WOULDN'T BE ABLE TO FINISH THIS AIRPLANE WITHOUT YOU GUY. It takes a village ……yada, yada, yada..Look on Amazon and do some Google searches for pricing alternatives...
Use the Kit# in the search argument