Eagler's Nest
Airframes => Single Seaters => XL => Topic started by: Jlwright on August 24, 2014, 02:49:21 PM
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I need a little help with the landing gear. The drawing shows a 3/8 diameter with a 1/4 inch hole for the hinge bolt. Either the drawing is way out of scale or the 3/8 outside diameter is more like 1/2 inch or 5/8 inch diameter. If the 3/8 dimension is correct then do I weld a strap over the top and down the tubing to strengthen it? Pictures would really help.
Thanks
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OK Jim; This is how I did mine. I did not weld a separate piece on the top, (that would fit in between the .090 gear fittings), as shown on the plans. I found that I did need the elbow bend,as shown, at the rear attach point but just extended the 5/8" tube up into the 7/8" slot and drilled a hole for, and welded in, a 3/8" bushing. The 3/8" bushing is then drilled out to 1/4" for a 1/4" bolt. One more suggestion that I could make is leaving a bit more length on the tube past the bushing that you can cut off after welding in the bushing and also extra length on the bushing that you trim to size, (7/8").This will help with not burning through the tube due to the lack of heat sink given by the extra "meat"and burning the lip of the bushing as it is welded in. Rich.
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Thanks for the info. Poor man here on the forum gave me a call and suggested pretty much the same approach.
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Now I have another issue. I made the front legs of the landing gear using the 12 degree angle per the drawings and after installing the legs into the brackets it looks like the wheels will be a good 2 inches behind the leading edge of the wing when the plane is level. The information calls for the wheels to be even with the leading edge or 6 inches forward. I have no idea what the 6 inch forward dimension refers to. If I increase the 12 degree dimension then the legs will bind in the brackets. Has anyone else had this problem? I can make a joint in the front legs similar to the rear leg and fix the problem but will have to start over. Any ideas?
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Jim, if you omit the spring struts binding is a moot point. You have enough flying experience to skip the bouncy struts if you use the Black Max tires. Works for Les and I on hard runways. :)
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What if you are a zero time pilot? I will get training along with the build. Should you include the springs?
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Thanks Sam, I won't be using the springs but didn't consider the fact that the legs would be stationary. I guess I will redrill the holes for the bushings and change the angle to move the legs forward. Does anyone know what Leonard meant by the statement of " or six inches forward".
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i *think* he was giving you a range to work within but that may be wrong. you'll have to ask him to be sure
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What if you are a zero time pilot? I will get training along with the build. Should you include the springs?
Yes.
Enjoy your flight lessons...you have begun a fantastic journey!
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rather than building exactly to the drawings consider plumbing the fuse up on saw horses and drop a plumb bob from the leading edge and also one from mid firewall bottom spanwise tube and the tailpost(chalk line that) for references. then build the gear on the plane so you end up with it correctly aligned. clamp the axles in a piece of angle iron placed under the plane square to the centerline chalk line and level to the fuse. build to fit rather than build exactly to the plans...our tolerances gang up on us.
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The wings are not built yet so that won't work for me at this point. I could wait until the wings are done but I really want to get some wheels under the fuselage for moral support if nothing else. I will make a false axle running between both gear legs to make sure everything is centered and straight. I sent Leonard an Email and he explained the six inch dimension. The way I understand it the center of the axle should be 6 inches forward of the forward leg bracket using the 12 degrees shown on the drawing. That should put the axle in line with the leading edge of the wing. It worked out pretty close to 12 degrees. In my case maybe more like 13-14 degrees. Thanks for the input guys.
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wings not required for what I'm talking about
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I misunderstood your point. I assume you dropped a line from the point where the leading edge is mathematically supposed to be. Am I right? Sometimes I seem to take the long way around what should be a simple task. Thanks for your help
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you can just place a rib into position at the root fitting and hang the plumb bob from that. if it's off a small fraction it won't matter
when you gonna ride that bike down here?
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I would love to get away for a few days. Maybe before it gets too cold to venture far from the house I can make a trip down South.