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« Last post by Brock on October 16, 2025, 10:29:20 AM »
(scratching head) why would you want to remove them?
Good question. So that I can go ahead and crimp them now but still not have them in the way during painting/powder-coating. But really, I can just wait till after paint to crimp them.
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« Last post by pappyadkins on October 16, 2025, 09:36:23 AM »
Yes Rick, I think the bottom example is the way Leonard drew it (except the strut would shift to the left, but I knew what you meant)... Either way would probably work (the OCD in my brain likes the top one) BUT that wasn't you original question... If your really concerned, you could always call Leonard... (It'd be a good excuses to talk to the man, lol) Hope that helps...
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I gave my xl plans to a kid that *thinks* he would like to build one  so I can't say what differences there are. I like the looks of the top one, though. It's kind of weird to dimension it that way. I would give the dimension from the root to the hole in the fitting if it were me.
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(scratching head) why would you want to remove them?
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« Last post by Brock on October 16, 2025, 08:09:20 AM »
The accepted order of rigging the tail should be:
(1) Level the stab.
(2) Make up and rig the lower cables to where you can't move the stab upwards.
(3) Make up and rig the upper cables.
That way, with the lower cables already rigged you can easily adjust the vertical stab to where it is..uh..vertical.
Now ya tell me. No, actually that is what I did, thank you. Only for lower cables I used the (temporary) welding rods, they worked well. Now if you had told me the best way to connect the lower cables to the lower bracket in a removable manner, that would be something I've not figured out yet.
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« Last post by Rick on October 16, 2025, 07:49:41 AM »
You have to be *very* careful changing anything because it might affect something later on.
Chuck,
That's why I've been struggling with this, wings kinda important.
I just created a drawing TO SCALE in the only 2-D application I own (Adobe Illustrator)
• Wing length: 139"
• Strut Brace location per plans: 65" from inboard, on 30.5˚ angle
• 15" between each bay, with 2" from inboard/outboard ends (+/-.125")
This looks proportional to Leonard's Plans . . . to my eye. yours ? ? ?
Rick
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The accepted order of rigging the tail should be: (1) Level the stab. (2) Make up and rig the lower cables to where you can't move the stab upwards. (3) Make up and rig the upper cables. That way, with the lower cables already rigged you can easily adjust the vertical stab to where it is..uh..vertical.
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I don't like the idea of changing the strut location. What da ya think? I don't much care for it either. Probably wouldn't hurt anything, though..up to you. You have to be *very* careful changing anything because it might affect something later on.
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« Last post by Rick on October 16, 2025, 04:51:22 AM »
Pappy,
It does make sense, that's how I first read it. Then while laying out on the table that (65") diagonal strut brace dimension looked out of proportion from the 6th vertical (L-> R), 4x15" spacing = 60". Attached is that first assumption, with last rib spacing (L->R) of 17".
I don't like the idea of changing the strut location. What da ya think?
Thank you!
Rick
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« Last post by Brock on October 15, 2025, 05:19:13 PM »
Well this took me longer than expected but finally it is done. Hard to move quickly when thinking so slowly. The solution to the bottom cable-tabs was simple in the end it's just that I knew there were likely 100 different ways to do it. So here is what I ended up with. I used welding rod to temporarally hold the horizontal down in place (level to the airframe) then made the top cables. The bottom cables have me thinking I need to somehow attach them with bolts else wait until the airframe is painted and tail covered before doing the unfinished ends shown.
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