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« Last post by Brock on February 24, 2026, 11:20:47 AM »
Yes, I too would be interested in how these tanks fit/measure.
Another tank option on my radar are the Aux tanks for the new Sonex Highwing. They are 5 gal, roto-molded. Not yet on their sales site but I've emailed to ask about them.
If I were to try and build my own aluminum tank (even fiberglass) I'd like to make the top skin to be part of the top of the wing. Perhaps resing in the ribs. Just thinking out loud.
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« Last post by Rick on February 24, 2026, 07:06:59 AM »
Aluminum welding is more finicky that steel so please post if you proceed with purchase AND the tank fits. Paying $399 to make problems go away not too bad. Thank you!
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« Last post by Kamcoman77 on February 23, 2026, 06:00:56 PM »
Looks very nice. Now comes all the modifications to the ribs for aileron hinge blocks & compression ribs. Please don't glue the ribs to the rear spar until you get those modifications made.
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« Last post by Isotope on February 23, 2026, 05:36:44 PM »
I made way too big a deal worrying about cutting the bevel in the front spar. It was very easy to do by myself with a table saw and two milk crates. Turns out my table saw is exactly the same hight as a milk crate.. hum.
I have the ribs modified around the root wing attach ply and slid over the rear spare and have decided to take a break from the build for a while and admire this beautiful wing on display in my den. I think i have made pretty good progress in a short time. Stay tuned
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« Last post by Isotope on February 23, 2026, 05:21:44 PM »
Kinda pricey but i am considering a minimax tank from minimax usa since they have started back up, they have alot in the online store including welded aluminum tanks. May be a good option for some. https://www.flyminimax.com/shop/p/18016-6
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« Last post by Kamcoman77 on February 20, 2026, 04:15:17 PM »
I made mine too short also. Since the ply is epoxied to the spar and the fitting bolts over it, I decided to add a short piece butted against the larger one. Looks fine after epoxying the fitting over the ply.
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« Last post by Brock on February 20, 2026, 03:52:43 PM »
I measured twice but failed to check the math. Came up short. Will have to sleep on it to decide if I'll remake the parts or punt with some other solution/fix for these short ply pieces.
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« Last post by Kamcoman77 on February 19, 2026, 08:08:05 PM »
I cut the plywood to fit against rib #8. However, it would be easy to notch the rib if you want the longer ply. I doubt it makes much difference.
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« Last post by Brock on February 19, 2026, 07:51:19 PM »
Was not asking about rib 3, that ply will but against that. Instead I was asking about rib #8 (I think it is). Should the ply butt against the rib or do I want to trim the rib by 1/8th" and glue on top of the ply?
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« Last post by Brock on February 19, 2026, 03:52:50 PM »
Today I cut and glued 1/8" ply on the root of the Main spars then took to working on cutting Strut-Block ply for both the Main and Rear spars. Rear spars plywood to be saved where I can later find them as they go on after the ribs. To locate the filler blocks I marked a peice of tape at 77" on the bench then marked two lines one at 5/8" and the other at 7/8" (5/8 + 1/4 for the rear spar). Then using a ruler I could extend a centerline down the filler block to intersect the appropriate location. See pic.
Q: for the plywood on the main-spar strut filler block, there is a choice to be make (see pic). The plywood will overlap the location where a rib is located, thus either the rib will have to be trimmed 1/8 to allow for the ply else the ply will have to be cut to just meet up to the side of the rib. What have folks prefered? Seems not cutting the plywood gives more strenth to the spar.
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