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« Last post by Kamcoman77 on August 23, 2026, 04:08:35 PM »
Level the fuselage, side to side. Take string level and pull it from the leveled longerons out past the wing tip. Measure from the string ai the fuselage to the wing root, and again at the wing tip. Tip should be 3" higher than line at fuselage/root.
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« Last post by Brock on August 23, 2026, 03:12:53 PM »
First off, I had to look up the spelling to make sure I didn't write 'diederal'. Not a word I use often.
So, I'm at the point of needing to mount dem wings. They are mostly finished except leading edge ply. I have some sacraficial conduit for struts. The reason for needing to mount is my aileron pully locations on the airframe seem to not be low enough thus I'll likely weld on some material once I know exactly where I can put the pullies.
So Here is my question. Since the hangar floor is not really all that flat & level I'm fearing that leveling the airframe and measureing from the floor 3" will be a settup for error. So I thought that perhaps I could convert the 3" to an angle. 154" wing length with 3" lift comes out to something like 1.1 degrees. Thats not much. Has anyone set their dihedral with a digital level this way? If so what did you learn (so I don't have to).
The only other idea (which just came to me) is to have is to perhaps get (or make) a water level of some sort and just set one end on the root and tip of the wing. If graduated in inches then there would be no measurements to be done. Hmmm, I'm liking this idea.
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« Last post by Brock on August 23, 2026, 02:51:20 PM »
Maybe you could drill the ID out some. ...
I did consider drilling it out but could not decide (by how much) how thin the walls can be and still have overkill strength. Since it is a straight thread and it is sealed with an O-ring and thread compound there is very little tightening torque. So it's only a matter of vibration or possibly being bumped. I'll leave it like this for now.
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« Last post by Dan_ on August 23, 2026, 10:32:53 AM »
Maybe you could drill the ID out some. It would lighten it for sure and maybe help the flow.
You do great work btw...
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« Last post by Brock on August 23, 2026, 10:17:52 AM »
I'm a fan of AN fittings, barbed hoses, not so much. So I decided to install an AN fitting at the oil-pickup point. Apart from finding a metric (14 x 1.5mm thread) to AN fitting, this should be simple. Right? Well turns out when an aluminum fitting is installed into an aluminum case, and neither are annodised, galling is a high likelyhood. Add into that mix a bit of red thread lock and things get rather tricky. Well, removing the stock fitting just about ruined my day. It did ruin the fitting which was just fine. After an hour, with a pick and then a purpose purchased tap, the case threads were back to serviceable conditions.
Next was choosing a fitting. Although the ID of these fittings were considerably smaller than the Verner recommended 10mm (I think they are specking the hose not the fittings) flow restriction, so I'm told, is culmative. Thus a slight restriction at the fitting should not be an issue. Well, we will see. I settled on a Steel -8AN fitting. It actually had the largest ID spec next to the whimpy verner barb. It comes at a weight penalty but at least it won't gall the threads if I ever have to remove it.
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« Last post by Tailwinder on August 23, 2026, 06:57:41 AM »
Now I got it. Thanks so much.
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« Last post by Kamcoman77 on August 22, 2026, 09:36:31 PM »
I am also using the I.D. drawings. A1 does not go anywhere. Cut it up and use the ply for something else. Your rib #7 & #12 sound good. #13 usually has 1/16" on root side and some people put 0.8mm on the tip, some don't use any doubler on the tip side. I cut slots for the aileron hinge blocks in the doublers for #12 & #13.
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« Last post by Tailwinder on August 22, 2026, 05:13:59 PM »
New LEXL builder and making ribs. Most are done, but 7, 12 and 13 yet to do. Using the Iron Design plans supplement. Looked through earlier posts but still unclear on a few things. Have the A1 doublers as shown on the Iron Design been eliminated/changed, or where do they go? What I have come up with is rib #7 has a 1/4" on root side and .8 mm on tip side. Rib #12 has 1/16" on root side and .8 mm on tip side. Not sure what is on rib #13. Can someone confirm and/or fill in what I'm missing. Thanks.
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« Last post by Dan_ on August 19, 2026, 07:15:48 PM »
As long as your name is on the Repairman's Certificate !! 
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« Last post by Outdoorsman on August 19, 2026, 03:12:25 PM »
Thank you Dan, I am not the original builder, I bought it as a project and finished it
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