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« Last post by Brock on February 01, 2026, 07:11:18 PM »
Just a thought about that. I used the 'upgraded' super lightweight tailwheel and was proud of myself for saving all that weight. Then.. I eventually added weight on the tail post for weight and balance. "D'oh!" 
Exactly why I went with the tradional spring steel (Verner V3). However, it's much easier to fix a nose heavy plane than a tail heavy plane.
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« Last post by Dan_ on February 01, 2026, 12:31:17 PM »
I'm no expert either, but it behooves me that a nested rib could be bent to fit inside the plans rib and riveted. Overkill and added weight I reckon...
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« Last post by Kamcoman77 on January 31, 2026, 03:36:15 PM »
I'm no expert, but it looks good to me.
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« Last post by Kamcoman77 on January 31, 2026, 01:31:08 PM »
Looks good, but I don't see any particular value in adding 4130 gussets. I used 4130 for my leading edge but not the bottom rib. My V Stab seems plenty strong, but the 4130 lower rib does sound like a good idea.
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« Last post by Shay King on January 31, 2026, 10:47:04 AM »
Hi again guys, I had some 1/2” 4130 tube surplus and I’ve laid out the vertical stabilizer with the leading edge and bottom rib made from it. I’m thinking of welding some.035 gussets at the front and rear. The rear ones would be overlapped by the aluminium gussets. Any advice?
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« Last post by Shay King on January 31, 2026, 10:39:15 AM »
I’ve made the bottom rib for the rudder out of some .025 6061 that I had and formed the gussets as part of the rib. Does it look acceptable?
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I used a 4130 lower rib and leading edge because of the Verner. Probably not needed, but I read it some where, probably here.
that's on my build thread page 13. I also added a rib to the rudder and should have added one to the vertical fin because the fabric will deform the spars when shrinking.
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Also note, if you do the 7/8 tail post, you can use the 'upgraded' super lightweight tailwheel... 
Just a thought about that. I used the 'upgraded' super lightweight tailwheel and was proud of myself for saving all that weight. Then.. I eventually added weight on the tail post for weight and balance. "D'oh!"
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« Last post by Kamcoman77 on January 30, 2026, 08:44:46 PM »
Yes, the best practice with epoxy is an even, thin coat on both glue surfaces, then check quickly for any dry spots, and apply extra, if needed. That's why I had a buddy help me by spreading the epoxy on the web while I spread it on the spar. We got an extremely even bond that way with no chance of any dry spots. I don't think I could have done as nice a layup without help. If you got a nice, even squeeze out of epoxy, you are good to go! Congratulations on your progress.
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« Last post by Brock on January 30, 2026, 07:12:07 PM »
Glue day. Like much of this build I've learned along each step. I started by sanding the glue joints with 120 grit then layed the web on the bench and traced the glue locations onto the web. I put a few stapples through the web into the bench. Mixed up 55mm of T88 then eventually another 40mm and applied it to the web with a shortenend acid brush. Took 25-30 minutes. Good thing working time is 45 minutes. Now that the assembly is safely weighted and becoming strong I took time to do more research on T88. Something I didn't know to do before hand. What I learned is the technique of applying glue to both surfaces. I'm not sure if I would have had time to do that without a second pair of hands. Still thinking about this.
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