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« Last post by Brock on January 30, 2026, 10:50:31 AM »
Thanks for your tips. I especially like the one about using CA on the brush.
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« Last post by Shay King on January 30, 2026, 10:39:49 AM »
Got it…
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« Last post by Kamcoman77 on January 30, 2026, 10:34:11 AM »
Not if you are using the plans built 7/8 hinges on the V Stab spar. You weld a 5/16 tube directly to the tailpost and the bolt holes line up. Here are some notes I added to one page of my plans. Pappy aligned the tailpost hinge by cutting a long 5/16"x0.058" or 0.065" tube almost in half. He was able to clamp it, aligned properly, to the tailpost for welding, then finished the cut. The ID of 0.065 needs reaming for an AN3 pin, the 0.058 is a slightly loose fit.
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« Last post by Shay King on January 30, 2026, 09:48:29 AM »
I’ve just had another rudder/tailpost thought. If you’ve installed the 7/8” tailpost, won’t that push the bottom rudder hinge out of alignment by 1/16”?
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« Last post by Kamcoman77 on January 29, 2026, 10:04:17 PM »
I used T-88 and acid brushes with the bristles cut a little short (about 1/2" long). I also put a drop of CA into each brush where the bristles join the handle so I would not have any bristles come loose. T-88 is very easy to spread this way. I lightly scuffed the web ply with 120-grit sandpaper and wiped the dust off with a damp paper towel. I put the T-88 on the ply web 1st since it takes longer to soak in than the spruce. After applying T-88 to the spar spruce, I placed the ply on the build table and aligned the spar over the ply. Then used bricks to apply pressure (no staples). Since I had already spliced my ply web pieces into one long piece, I cheated during my gluing. I applied T-88 to the spar, and a buddy applied T-88 to the ply web. If you are worried about not having enough time to do it alone and haven't glued all four pieces of web ply together, perhaps you could add one length of ply at a time being sure there is adequate pressure on each scarf.
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« Last post by Brock on January 29, 2026, 06:36:05 PM »
No doubt there is a thread on this but I failed to find it. I did find some interesting looking posts in the sticky but they all seem to go to a dead yahoo group page (unless I need an account). Anyways....
My front Spar webs will be ready to glue on tomorrow. I'm trying to decide if I should mix a large batch of T88 and apply with an acid brush else use titebondIII. Seems Titebond would be easier though it can start to skin if it takes too long to apply and it needs more clamping force than T88. T88 on the otherhand has a nice long working time but is not as easy to spread.
What are your recomendations?
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« Last post by Brock on January 29, 2026, 05:57:28 PM »
Using the Scarf Sled for the first time was not as difficult as I had feared. After figuring out how it is supposed to work I made a few slight mods. First was to put a board across the top and make some wedges to hold the plywood. I also screwed a hold down 1/4" peice to keep the end of the ply from lifting. Finally used several 1/4 slivers to guide the router sled. I'd remove 1/4 inch after each cut this way the router was better guided and not free to go all over the place. After the first scarf the following 7 went smoothly.
The result seemed good enough, to me, to glue. So I glued up (t-88) the two front spar-webs. Look forward to seeing what I have tomorrow.
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« Last post by Kamcoman77 on January 29, 2026, 11:39:14 AM »
Great observation on the lower rib. I put a square stick of balsa inside my lower rib to add stiffness. My rudder horn is also not to plans. I made mine so the cable pull points would be in line with the hinge line, hence the slightly vee-shaped horn. Another thing that I, and several other builders did was to ignore the 1/4" side dimension on the rudder (and other) 0.020" ribs. I made my rib sides 1/2" to add more area for rivets and bent about 1/8" over at an angle to stiffen the ribs and remove the sharp rib edge so it will not cut the fabric covering.
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« Last post by Shay King on January 29, 2026, 10:31:55 AM »
Thanks again Keith,
The photos are very helpful.
That bottom rib on the rudder, that the rudder horn attaches to, is it strong enough with the standard .020 bent up rib? Seems to me that there could be a lot of pressure on it.
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« Last post by Kamcoman77 on January 29, 2026, 08:54:46 AM »
I don't remember exactly what my dimensions were, but I'm pretty sure I followed the numbers shown at the trailing edge. I put my hinges where I thought they looked good. I have more hinges on my rudder than the plans show.
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