Everything depends on which rib drawing you want to use. Many people have reported a range of rib dimensions from the XL plans, This is what is important.... You can go one of two ways. #1. Decide on which rib drawing you are going to use. Build your first rib. Then build your spars to fit your rib.YES Match your nose rib to your front spar after beveling. My front spars had an 8-degree bevel. #2. Build spars according to Page 34 dimensions. Then re-size your rib drawing so the rib height matches your front spar. Then match your nose rib to spar, after beveling. Yes, but but number 1 is easier as no interpolation of the rib drawing is required (resizing)I did not make my spars first, since I believe they should fit my ribs, not the other way around. I used the IronDesigns LLC rib drawing so my ribs will be a little different height than yours, if you use Leonard's full-size rib drawing. Either rib profile will work just fine; pick one and stick with it.Yes again, There is no one that is ever going to tell or be able to measure a difference in performance The rear spar height does not fill the opening in the rib. On my rib-to-spar joint there is about 1/4" gap at the top of the rear spar. The top of my rear spar does not need a bevel like the front spar. This is just me, but knowing how spar strength is calculated, I like to take advantage of everything I can get, so I try to make this as tight as possible. Sure will work as explained here.
