Author Topic: H86 build: how we're doing it  (Read 758 times)

Offline jrbirdman47

H86 build: how we're doing it
« on: January 20, 2019, 10:19:29 AM »
Just a few photos of how we tackled various construction methods. I have a very small shop and want use the most space/ time efficient  ways to build the wings. Rib jig enables us to apply gussets to both side simultaneously. Clamps have nylon cutting board segments attached with bolts and o rings to allow them to float and center. The green nylon segments have wood screws just barely penetrating them to grip the plywood and keep the gussets from sliding on the glue. The construction table uses toggle "cams" to tighten spar frames against the edge guides, allowing construction of both front and rear spars simultaneously, while constructing scarf joined web in the middle. When both are complete, the middle jig then allows the two to be joined, completing the two spars, while the next two spar frames are started on the edges. Wood "clamps" are applied to the frames/ web by long screws into the table located at each 1/4 X 3/4 spacer where the ribs will attach. (A long 1 X 2 pine spacer between the spar frames and the clamps help distribute the pressure) Router set up is how we "scarfed" the 1/8 plywood to splice the 4 foot segments to make the spar web. So far the "assembly line" has been pretty quick and efficient.

Offline jrbirdman47

Re: H86 build: how we're doing it
« Reply #1 on: January 20, 2019, 10:28:34 AM »
Gave up on a surface to which the T-88 would not stick and just place everything on freezer paper. NOTHING sticks to that stuff!

Offline jrbirdman47

Re: H86 build: how we're doing it
« Reply #2 on: April 17, 2019, 12:14:20 AM »
Wing is coming together nicely now. Quite quickly, actually, since we tried to have all components as complete as possible before putting it all together so as to minimize "on the wing" construction. Photo detail of the inboard aileron rib with blind nuts. Placed them on the inside, (Control horn outside to hopefully make it easier to cover) The nuts were about 3/8" thick so had to be trimmed to flush with the 1/4" plywood rib.We epoxied them to the rib using a wing nut and bolt as a clamp, then placed a small screw through it as a backup to prevent rotation.