How to steer my tail wheel

[Mark Kramer]

Hi guys, another question or two. I think steering my tail wheel with springs and chains directly from the rudder horn is not an option. To much height differential. I could put a horn in the bottom of the rudder and solve the issue.Just wondering if this light weight rudder would prefer I use cables directly from the wheel horns and connect them to the rudder cables up forward a bit with swage fittings? The other opinions I’m looking for is about the tail wires attach points at the lower longeron. Both wires converging to a single point or separate to two fore and aft points. Anyone have some insight here?

Thanks Mark

[Steve]

Hi guys, another question or two. I think steering my tail wheel with springs and chains directly from the rudder horn is not an option. To much height differential. I could put a horn in the bottom of the rudder and solve the issue.Just wondering if this light weight rudder would prefer I use cables directly from the wheel horns and connect them to the rudder cables up forward a bit with swage fittings? The other opinions I’m looking for is about the tail wires attach points at the lower longeron. Both wires converging to a single point or separate to two fore and aft points. Anyone have some insight here?

Thanks Mark

See TW cables angling forward on rudder cables of Bob Severance's LE - Double Nicopress fittings

[Mark Kramer]

Yes I see. Seems like the better option,less abuse to the rudder. Any opinion on the wires under the stab,triangelate to a single point or separated to two points? Also I’ve heard that the 1/2 inch leading edge of the v-stab should be changed to steel, any thoughts? I really appreciate the help.
Thanks
Mark

[Kamcoman77]

Don't know about one attach point or two, for the H.stab brace cables, but several guys with the higher horsepower engines used 1/2" 0.035 wall 4130 for V.stab LE. I'm only using 37hp engine but I decided to go with the 4130 LE. I also used a 6061-T6 tube for the lower rib since I heard the bent ribs bowed a lot when fabric was shrunk.

[Mark Kramer]

Cool thanks.I talked to Leonard about it and he said as long as I used the two cable system the 1/2 inch aluminum leading edge would be fine.l did bend a bottom rib out of some thicker aluminum I had. Also added a rib from the lower leading edge connection point down to the center of the bottom rib. He also likes triangulating the lower wires to a single point on the fuselage. Thanks again guys

[Shay King]

Hi guys,
Is there any more detail available on how the tail wheel steering cables attach to the rudder cables like how far forward is the join made? A photo would be great.
Many thanks.
Shay.

[Mark Kramer]

I can’t comment on attaching to the rudder cables, as I ended With a different system. I made a second control horn for the bottom of the rudder. This one I made out of steel ( very rugged). My tail wheel is steered from this horn via small chains and springs. I am certain that it has been done both ways successfully.

[Shay King]

Thanks for the reply Mark,
It would be interesting to know which is the most common method.
I’m just about to start finish welding my bare fuselage and I’m thinking ahead to all the bits I have to attach to it. I was having difficulty visualising how the tailwheel steering worked, now I have two options to consider.
Another question I have, which I might post somewhere else, is how much of the tailpost to leave sticking down below the bottom longerons. Page 3a of the plans show it cut flush and page 25 shows about an inch sticking down but no dimension is given.

[Kamcoman77]

The tailpost only needs to stick down far enough to fit the 4130 angle that the tail spring rests against, if you are building to plan. Most people probably leave the post a little long and trim to fit. I think mine is trimmed to 1/4" below lower longerons. Page 3A of XL plans show this, but the drawing isn't accurate because it shows lower longeron and tailpost angle at 90° which is not true.

[garygans]

This works for me.