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Eagler's Nest
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3D Printing
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Topic: 3D Printing (Read 12398 times)
Jethack737
Jr. Member
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Eagle Type: Building XL
3D Printing
«
on:
May 31, 2015, 11:16:20 PM »
Just wondered if anybody had considered 3D printing for parts like nose ribs and aileron nose ribs? I don't know much about 3D printing, cost or otherwise, but for parts like these that don't have much stress on them, it seems like it may be an option. I guess they could be printed in ABS plastic or possibly other materials. I don't know how it would compare in weight, but that might be a consideration also.
Anybody have any thought or opinions on that?
Rick
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Tom XL-7
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Re: 3D Printing
«
Reply #1 on:
June 01, 2015, 04:39:31 AM »
I have not thought about it but from your post I see a problem that of course can be worked around. You mention ABS plastic. It does not play well will the adhesives most builders use - Epoxy; like t-88 and some people use Titebond. Neither of these will stick to ABS. One could use one of the solvent glues that plumbers use. I haven't tried it but I imagine it would stick to wood, I know it sticks to clothing, people, tools, floors, ladders, and everything else it touches.
I think a bigger question may be why. The thin plywoods cut quick enough for the home builder. A template works quickly with a router or trace a line and use a band saw, Jig saw or hand held scroll saw. If production quantities is your goal you can work stacks or I imagine they cold be die cut with a press ( think old school balsa airplane kits) or if you need millions a die roller. Crank em out like newspapers.
That said if it is something you want to try and can get access to the printer and programming go have fun. Who knows where it would lead.
Tom XL-7
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scottiniowa
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Re: 3D Printing
«
Reply #2 on:
June 01, 2015, 05:30:15 AM »
Tom covered this well already with the very true, “they just won’t stick” problem. But to dive further, in general the place where 3-D printing shines in areas of prototype work and parts that are very hard to make such as those having compound curves and the like.
The Eagle series of aircraft have none of those kinds of parts.
Cost- even if you had your own printer- rules out these parts as well, as the ones you mentions are good in number.
Of course set up time comes to play as well, just saying’
And lastly, but most importantly. the strength to weight factor, you just won’t overcome the ratio that wood offers, unless you jump to the also expensive carbon fiber.
But thinking about new ideas is always a positive in aircraft building.
Best of success.
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best email address: irondesignairparts@gmail.com
Jethack737
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Re: 3D Printing
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Reply #3 on:
June 01, 2015, 06:17:02 AM »
Thanks for the comments. Like I said, I don't know much about 3D printing, but just thought I would throw it out there.
Rick
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Bob S.
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Re: 3D Printing
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Reply #4 on:
June 01, 2015, 08:54:36 AM »
NOW if you could employ a LASER to the 3D you might be able to cut some parts........
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Bob Severance
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Fritz
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Re: 3D Printing
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Reply #5 on:
June 05, 2015, 07:04:17 PM »
A CNC router might be a more practical option.
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Brock
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3D Printed Nose Ribs (STL's)
«
Reply #6 on:
Today
at 09:08:22 AM »
Someone asked me to make my nose rib designs available. Seems like this is an appropriate place to post them. Here are three versions in STL format. 'Skinny' is what I used between where the ribs line up, yes I have double the needed number of nose ribs. 'Tip' as I recall is about 1/2" thick. 'Root' is also 1/2" thick but have some cutouts for that area. Also included in the zip file is the 'STEP' file of the basic rib so that you can modify your own.
Filamant: I used LW-ASA. ASA because it is UV stable and handles higher tempuratures. Does well on the car-dash heat test. Very scientific. 'LW-' foaming makes it very light. Lighter than the plywood versions. I used 4 outerwalls and 15% infil. As far as getting your printer to print LW-ASA you are on your own. It takes some research and fidling. My printer is a Bambu thus included in the zip is a '3MF' file that will help get you started in case you print with bambu.
Finally, I mirrored a few ribs in the slicer, along the 'Y' axis so I'd have right/left versions. This helps with the clamp-tabs incase they are pointed the wrong direction for say, the Tip/Root ribs.
I found that my ribs were just a bit narrow but I was able to pull and clamp them when gluing. I used a small block of wood as a stop against the edge of the top & bottom of the main spar when clamping to make sure each ribe was lined up the same. Consider scaling in case they are too small/large. Good luck, and post your results if you print and use these.
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s/n: WEB-14, 3VLA
flu-flu: type of arrow that travels slow for short distance.
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