Recent Posts

41

XL / Re: Tail surface bracing wire?

« Last post by Kamcoman77 on February 14, 2026, 03:17:32 PM »

In looking at an old post where I asked the same question, I learned that many of the builders, including Les Homan on ORV used 1/16" bracing wire. No reported issues from anyone. I decided to use 1/16" 7x7 stainless cable on my XL.

42

XL / Re: Tail surface bracing wire?

« Last post by pappyadkins on February 14, 2026, 12:04:58 PM »

I also got John Bolding's kit & according to him & Leonard - 3/32” for everything... I believe the original had smaller wire, but I think the lawyers modified... lol

43

XL / Tail surface bracing wire?

« Last post by Shay King on February 14, 2026, 11:15:53 AM »

Just a quick question. Leonard’s plans show 1/16” bracing wire on the tail surfaces. The list of materials doesn’t seem to mention any 1/16” wire.
My crate of material from John Bolding contained only 3/32” wire.
What are builders using there? Is it simpler to use 3/32” for everything?
Thanks.

44

Builders logs / Re: Pappy's LEXL Build in Texas

« Last post by Tom H on February 14, 2026, 06:27:09 AM »

My first attempt at making a tank for LEU TreeHugger was by making a core from polyester foam, covered in clear packing tape.  I used vinylester resin and fiberglass cloth.  The vinylester resin fumes apparently permeated the packing tape and started to attack the foam, which ruined that attempt.  Next, I used urethane foam, vinylester, FG cloth.  I troweled silicon caulk over the foam, with the experience that nothing sticks to silicon caulk.  That worked, but it was a chore to get the foam out of the cured fiberglass tank. That tank worked, but we found "gunk" in the carb, thinking it was from the tank.  Later we think the gunk was from tube fitting sealant. Anyway, I made a welded aluminum tank, which has proven to work great.  I don't have the numbers with me, but the FG tank was only a couple ounces heavier than the alum tank.  Here is a pic of the foam being removed from the FG tank.
Pappy, I think your approach will work just fine.  I don't think cardboard will be affected by vinylester fumes, if they get through the tape.  And, I like your idea of putting the tank in the center section.

45

Builders logs / Re: Pappy's LEXL Build in Texas

« Last post by pappyadkins on February 13, 2026, 07:30:11 AM »

Happy Friday (the 13th)... So sorry for the delays, but we're hopefully back at it... Today, let's see dive into my fuel tank build or builds (we'll see if my crazy ideas work or not!)

46

Builders logs / Re: Isotopes LEXL build in MO

« Last post by Kamcoman77 on February 08, 2026, 10:13:41 PM »

That's good news about the strut doublers. You can just slide the ribs over the rear spar from the tip, starting with rib #3. Cutting the bevel with your table saw should be very easy, and no cause for concern. Just set the blade at 10° or whatever angle you decide on, set your fence so pushing the spar through will just skim off the tiny edge of the ply web & remove mostly the sliver of spruce off the spar cap. The thing that helped me was setting up supports at both ends of the spar, so I did not need another person helping.

47

Builders logs / Re: Isotopes LEXL build in MO

« Last post by Isotope on February 08, 2026, 09:14:57 PM »

I do not have the strut ply doublers glued on the rear spar yet.
 Started back to work working alot of over time after a vacation so not making alot of progress at the moment. Next step is still to cut the bevel in the front spar with a table saw which i am nervous about doing.

48

Builders logs / Re: Isotopes LEXL build in MO

« Last post by Kamcoman77 on February 08, 2026, 06:08:04 PM »

Just noticed you have all the root end plywood doublers epoxied on the rear spar. To slide the ribs in place from the root to the strut ply doubler you will probably have to chisel off some of the root end ply doublers. I have had good luck using a heat gun to get the ply very hot and sliding a chisel under the ply. It came off with very little damage to the spar. If you have not added the strut block ply doubler you can slide all the ribs on from the tip end. If the strut block ply is already on it will probably be easiest to remove it and leave all your root end ply doublers in place.

49

Builders logs / Re: Isotopes LEXL build in MO

« Last post by leshoman on February 08, 2026, 05:55:09 PM »

The spar is 3/4" plus 1/8" so min gap should be 15/16"  7/8 is better and easier to slip over rear spar.   Only glue bottom and back of fear spar to rear spar so it does need to fit tight on all sides

50

Briggs and Stratton V-twin / Re: BS23 drive shaft

« Last post by leshoman on February 08, 2026, 05:20:54 PM »

The 1" or 1-1/8" will both work.  The 1-1/8"would better if available on motor.  To change sizes on drive bushing requires a different size bushing.  The way they are made i believe not possible to modify.