Fuselage

[Brock]

(scratching head) why would you want to remove them?

Good question.  So that I can go ahead and crimp them now but still not have them in the way during painting/powder-coating.  But really, I can just wait till after paint to crimp them.

[Brock]

Now that the tail cable-struts are finished I've turned my attention to the rudder and elevator cables.  Things are getting exciting now that I can sit in the seat and make airplane noises and wiggle the rudders with my feet.  As someone mentoned earlier, it's easy to mix up the elevator top/bottom cables causing the elevator to work backwords.  This might work down-under (like the toilet swirls are reversed) but not in my shop.  So I did get them straigth just before crimping.

Getting the cable guides installed was a big milestone.  I really wanted them all on the inside of the frame, to keep the look clean, but then I also wanted the cable runs as straight as possible.  Straight won-out and pictured is what I now have.  Still to do, is to roll the airframe and weld the guides in on the other sides.

I was always hoping to complet the airframe and send it to be powder-coated before starting the wings.  But alas, I can't do the final wing mount (rear) until at least some of a wing is complete.  The plodding-on continues.

[Brock]

Today I finished the rudder and elevator cables.  was quite satisfying to be able to move the tail flight controls.  But just now I was reading through Chuck's build log which reminded me that the tailwheel cables get nicopressed to the rudder cable.  That means I'll need a nicopress already on the cable to do that before installing the cable ends.  Too late, I forgot this little detail.  Will have to find another way around this.

[jrbirdman47]

"U" cable clamps?

[pappyadkins]

Maybe something like this?

[Brock]

Maybe something like this?

Pappy, yes.  Those are rather elegant. I did a reverse image search and found that HomeDepot sells them ([3/16 in. Zinc-Plated Flush Wire Rope Clamps).  SS would be better but I like the design so will go check them out today.

edit: BIG OOPS (need 3/32 not 3/16)   

[jrbirdman47]

I like it. It gives the ability to tinker with cable length as well, if needed; something you'd be unable to do with Nicopress sleeves.

[Chuck in Indiana]

It doesn't take long to make up new cables.. (shrug)

[Dan_]

New cables or a flat linkage plate about 3 inches long at the end of the run.  The one end is permanently swaged and the other has holes drilled for different lengths and a safetied nut and bolt.

[Brock]

It doesn't take long to make up new cables.. (shrug)

You are right Chuck.  New cables it will be.  For grins I modified these low-profile clamps from 3/16 to 3/32 by belt sanding and drilling.  They seemed to hold the cable well with still a tiny gap between each half.  In the end they failed my vice pull test.

Here is a pic before the mode, for those curious.

[pappyadkins]

Sorry guys to make y'all go down that rabbit hole... That was just the first picture I saw, I was hoping you could find the same thing for 3/32" cable (or the size of your cable)... After all the commotion, I searched and couldn't locate either, I am glad you tried to modify & test... now I won't be tempted to do so... lol

[Tom H]

I have used an electrical split bolt connector as a temporary clamp when making up control cables.

[Brock]

Finished welding on the Windshield and Floorboard tabs today.  Then started making patterns for them both.  It was interesting to see what a flat windshield looks like.  Not like I expected it.  The drawing is for others to have an idea as to what to expect.

[Brock]

I got impatient waiting for one of my airport buddies to show up to let me use his bending-brake.  So yesterday I hitailed it over to HF Aircraft Tool Store and picked up one of their 36" brakes.  Got it mounted on my welding bench and went home for the day to watch u-tube videos on what folks recommend as far as adjustments.  This morning bright and early I was back at the hangar and attacking it with a handful of wrentches.  The effort was well worth it.  The cut windshield, from my last post, bent just perfectly and fit like a glove.  Love it when a concept and careful measurements return rewards.  BTW the bend is only 63 deg (each side).  While I was at it I made a small bend on the floor board and set it in place.  The plan is to use 14 10x32x3/8" nylon screws to mount the windshield.

You can see the brake in the background behind the seat.

Next on my agenda is to weld on the front wing mount.

[pappyadkins]

Looking Great!!!!