Fuselage

[Brock]

(scratching head) why would you want to remove them?

Good question.  So that I can go ahead and crimp them now but still not have them in the way during painting/powder-coating.  But really, I can just wait till after paint to crimp them.

[Brock]

Now that the tail cable-struts are finished I've turned my attention to the rudder and elevator cables.  Things are getting exciting now that I can sit in the seat and make airplane noises and wiggle the rudders with my feet.  As someone mentoned earlier, it's easy to mix up the elevator top/bottom cables causing the elevator to work backwords.  This might work down-under (like the toilet swirls are reversed) but not in my shop.  So I did get them straigth just before crimping.

Getting the cable guides installed was a big milestone.  I really wanted them all on the inside of the frame, to keep the look clean, but then I also wanted the cable runs as straight as possible.  Straight won-out and pictured is what I now have.  Still to do, is to roll the airframe and weld the guides in on the other sides.

I was always hoping to complet the airframe and send it to be powder-coated before starting the wings.  But alas, I can't do the final wing mount (rear) until at least some of a wing is complete.  The plodding-on continues.

[Brock]

Today I finished the rudder and elevator cables.  was quite satisfying to be able to move the tail flight controls.  But just now I was reading through Chuck's build log which reminded me that the tailwheel cables get nicopressed to the rudder cable.  That means I'll need a nicopress already on the cable to do that before installing the cable ends.  Too late, I forgot this little detail.  Will have to find another way around this.

[jrbirdman47]

"U" cable clamps?

[pappyadkins]

Maybe something like this?

[Brock]

Maybe something like this?

Pappy, yes.  Those are rather elegant. I did a reverse image search and found that HomeDepot sells them ([3/16 in. Zinc-Plated Flush Wire Rope Clamps).  SS would be better but I like the design so will go check them out today.

edit: BIG OOPS (need 3/32 not 3/16)   

[jrbirdman47]

I like it. It gives the ability to tinker with cable length as well, if needed; something you'd be unable to do with Nicopress sleeves.

[Chuck in Indiana]

It doesn't take long to make up new cables.. (shrug)

[Dan_]

New cables or a flat linkage plate about 3 inches long at the end of the run.  The one end is permanently swaged and the other has holes drilled for different lengths and a safetied nut and bolt.

[Brock]

It doesn't take long to make up new cables.. (shrug)

You are right Chuck.  New cables it will be.  For grins I modified these low-profile clamps from 3/16 to 3/32 by belt sanding and drilling.  They seemed to hold the cable well with still a tiny gap between each half.  In the end they failed my vice pull test.

Here is a pic before the mode, for those curious.

[pappyadkins]

Sorry guys to make y'all go down that rabbit hole... That was just the first picture I saw, I was hoping you could find the same thing for 3/32" cable (or the size of your cable)... After all the commotion, I searched and couldn't locate either, I am glad you tried to modify & test... now I won't be tempted to do so... lol

[Tom H]

I have used an electrical split bolt connector as a temporary clamp when making up control cables.

[Brock]

Finished welding on the Windshield and Floorboard tabs today.  Then started making patterns for them both.  It was interesting to see what a flat windshield looks like.  Not like I expected it.  The drawing is for others to have an idea as to what to expect.