Tonys LEXL build in MO

[Isotope]

First rib done. I dread removing 4000 staples. Is there any other disadvantage in leaving them in besides extra weight? Rust, corrosion? I do like the peace of mind of leaving them in for extra security.
  Im using Les's gusset kit and supplemental wing drawings. I thought the price was ok for having all gussets laser cut, numbered and sorted. Thanks Les!
Im not going to do an overly detailed build log but will try my best to post as much progress as possible and questions along the way.

[pappyadkins]

First off, great job!!! As far as leaving staples for extra confidence... just make a sample glue joint & see what happens when you try to  tear it apart (that will build confidence, lol) - go ahead and remove them... I do understand the dread of removing them all - that's why I built my 2nd (and 3rd) jig so I could glue both sides at the same time without any staples... Anyways, looking good & if we can help in anyway - let us know... david

[Kamcoman77]

Nice looking rib. Just remember they are not all made alike. Different gussets on the ribs with compression struts and ribs at each end of the ailerons. Extra 1/4x1/4 verticals on ribs 1 & 2 for wing fitting notches. Maybe Pappy will post a photo of his rib jig using clamps for pressure instead of staples.

[Isotope]

I have seen Pappy's jig, great idea. My next plan is to staple one side in the jig, then remove, then clamp the other side. Thats half the staples anyway.
One question i forgot to ask in first post. Leonards plans says 15/16" gap between the two verticals for the rear spar where as the supplemental plans from Les says 7/8. Do i understand the total thickness of the spar is 7/8? And which measurement should i go by?  For this first rib i just split the difference so 29/32nd's lol. I assume Leonard is allowing 1/16th for the ribs to slide on easy. Whats a common practice here?

[Kamcoman77]

All the XL plans I have show a thickness of 3/4" (front to rear) for the rear spar caps. When you add the 1/8" spar web you should have a total thickness of 7/8". I think the 15/16" spacing comes from the fact you might want a little "wiggle room" to slide the spar into the ribs. I made my rear spar opening a loose 7/8" so my ribs would slip over the rear spar but leave no gaps to fill with epoxy. Ignore the little gussets in the 2nd photo. They are not part of the design, just something I added.

[pappyadkins]

Maybe Pappy will post a photo of his rib jig using clamps for pressure instead of staples.

Which one were you referring to, my 1st or my 2nd & 3rd?  Or were you talking about my unrevealed one? - we can't show that one yet, it's still a work in process - lol (Oh wait, I guess all of them were a work in progress... lol)

[Kamcoman77]

I was thinking of the 2nd one.

[Isotope]

Oh dang Pappy! Is that 3d printed? How would one go about getting access to the stl file? I bet that took a while to print..
Im moving along ok with traditional method and staples for now and starting to get my own system worked out on just my second rib.
I havnt tried to wrap my head around it quite yet but im confused on Les's supplemental instructions on how many ribs to make of each. On page 41 it states total of 16 standard ribs. So i take that to make 16 of those, but on page 57 through 61 it breaks down how many of each ribs to make and on page 58 it says "8" standard ribs, not 16.. I hope this makes sense and I hope maybe Les or someone could chime in that has these drawings. I realize these supplemental drawings were made to simplify things so maybe im missing something.

[Kamcoman77]

Ribs 1, 2, 3, & 5 (each wing) are alike except for the added 1/4x1/4 verticals to ribs 1 & 2 for wing fitting notches. Ribs 4, 6, 8, & 10 get smaller compression strut gussets on the root side of each rib in certain places. Ribs 7, 12, & 13 all have larger gussets behind the rear spar to allow for aileron hinge blocks. If you make 16 ribs alike you will be sanding stuff off of some of them to make things fit. If you are using Iron Designs ribs, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, & 12 all have K-blocks & K-block gussets.

[Chuck in Indiana]

There is a picture of the simple jig and clamp plates on page 1 of my build thread. Alternately, from failing memory you can put a cord under the staples and rip them out when the glue is set. I think. 
https://www.eaglersnest.com/forum/index.php?topic=2197.0

[Kamcoman77]

Here is a photo of Chuck's hold down plates. Be sure the gussets don't slip out of place, if using T-88.

[Isotope]

22 more to go. I have decided im going to staple all of it. I like the control i have with the stapler.
  Thanks for the explanations of the different ribs. Its all starting to come together in my mind. I like to plan as much as possible but im best when i figure it out as i go. It seems thats what building this plane is all about anyway.
4 more of these and i will set my mind on figuring out the compression ribs and aileron gussets etc,,

[Kamcoman77]

Is that an optical illusion or is that rib closest to us under cambered? As long as you think before you glue, you should have some beautiful ribs. The compression rib gussets are just a few of the regular gussets with a little of the top cut off. If you lay a compression rib against one of the ribs you already made, you can see how much to trim before you glue & staple. I don't think I had to trim any of the upper gussets, just the lower ones on ribs #4, 6, 8, & 10.