Author Topic: Isotopes LEXL build in MO (Read 3691 times)

Kamcoman77 · « **Reply #60 on:** January 12, 2026, 09:41:47 PM »

I cut the bevel on my table saw before I assembled the front spars, but I did make a couple of wedges that I glued to the bottom of my router to trim the angle on the spar web. That same setup should work just fine to trim the spar cap. An easier way might be just run the spar through your table saw with the blade set to the proper angle.

Isotope · « **Reply #61 on:** January 12, 2026, 09:48:52 PM »

8* or 10*? My plans say 10. After doing a little research i wonder how well a table saw would work? Man i would hate taking my pretty spar through a saw.. $:-\$ But i would try it with some help

Kamcoman77 · « **Reply #62 on:** January 12, 2026, 10:15:19 PM »

Plans say 10°. I made a mock nose rib/spar/wing rib to determine my angle since I was using the Iron Designs wing rib size. I cut my spar caps from a 14-foot-long plank, then cut the 8° angle on my upper front caps. I used the fence on my table saw to hold the wood in alignment while I ran it through the saw. I had rollers to support the wood on both ends.

pappyadkins · « **Reply #63 on:** January 13, 2026, 09:56:55 AM »

Many ways to skin that cat... I just sanded after assembly... no fuss, didn't have to fight the saw... but either way works... keep on plugging along...

Kamcoman77 · « **Reply #64 on:** January 13, 2026, 10:30:56 AM »

Yes, as Pappy says, sanding is an option as well as using a hand plane and shaving the angle to the 8° or 10° mark. I just used my table saw because I had it already set up to cut my spar caps out of my 14-foot-long planks.

Isotope · « **Reply #65 on:** January 13, 2026, 09:19:16 PM »

Just made my first big mistake.. While epoxying and stapling the web to the second spar i realized that i installed the strut brace in the wrong section. I installed it in the 5th bay instead of the 6th bay from the root like i did on the first spar. Sadly right after i epoxied and stapled the web on top of it. I decided to let it cure and cut, dig grind it out. Whats a good method? I have an angle grinder with tiger paws. I thought maybe a router set to depth but i would have to buy one. I need one anyway. Whats yalls input. And give me a kick in the a$$ for not paying attention to this detail. Its easy to get confused when u flip the spars around to build a opposite one.

Kamcoman77 · « **Reply #66 on:** January 13, 2026, 10:36:17 PM »

I not only put some of my strut blocks in the wrong bay, but backwards! I used a Forstner bit to drill a lot of holes in the bad blocks and a chisel to chop out the rest of the block.

pappyadkins · « **Reply #67 on:** January 14, 2026, 09:24:42 AM »

yep easy to do... good news, you're not the only one to do it and it'll all be covered up in the end... Glad you caught it now & not after final assembly... I like your router idea, just take it gentle & don't get into the plywood... I had to chisel & finally sand the plywood doublers on the ends, so I feel your pain...

Isotope · « **Reply #68 on:** January 16, 2026, 08:19:21 PM »

By mistake i did not build my front spar .8mm shorter than the rib to allow for the ply sheet. Not to worried about this as in Les's supplemental wing plans he states that this can be remedied easy by sanding it into a "ramp" or fill putty. After all .8mm is a very small offset. Opinions?

Kamcoman77 · « **Reply #69 on:** January 16, 2026, 08:53:54 PM »

Or you could wrap the nose ply over a small portion of each wing rib to reinforce the rib to spar joint. That is what Pappy Adkins did. Check it out in his build log and videos.

Isotope · « **Reply #70 on:** January 20, 2026, 09:50:41 AM »

Few questions about the 2 1/2" ply strips that go over the strut braces and wing mounting filler block. See pics. On the 2 1/2" strut brace ply does it go on both sides. On plans it says ply on both sides but does that mean double ply on one side (2 1/2" ply ontop of the web)? Also where it butts up against the rib does it stop there? If not the rib would have to me modified for the ply to continue. I assume that would be stronger. And then on wing brace U shape ply does it go on both sides as well or just the side opposite of the web?

Isotope · « **Reply #71 on:** January 20, 2026, 10:33:55 AM »

Ok desregard the above "for now" I think i have made a mistake on the rear spar strut blocks. See pic. Looks like they go inboard more inline with the front spar block where X is equal distance from the upright in my pic. If so looks like im cutting out more blocks... and good thing i have more 3/4x2" stock.

Kamcoman77 · « **Reply #72 on:** January 20, 2026, 11:34:16 AM »

The main thing about those strut mounting blocks is the 77" dimension from the root end of the wing. If your strut fittings have the strut mounting hole at 77", I would leave the blocks alone. Those small U-shaped ply doublers under the wing fittings go on both sides according to pages 33 & 35. Page 33 shows them on web side & 35 shows them on the other. The issue is with the 1-1/8" dimension shown between wing fittings. It is actually 1-1/4". Chuck & I both used the small doublers on both sides of the wings and 1-1/4" between fittings.

Isotope · « **Reply #73 on:** January 20, 2026, 12:12:07 PM »

Thats the problem. Those mounting holes are not going to be anywhere near 77" from root with the blocks where they are at now. The only way to make that happen is if i line the aluminum brackets up way out of line with the block, then they will not be anywhere near the 29*. Looks like i will cut them out and redo. I have started cutting out the block i put in the wrong bay from a previous post with a router and it is working pretty good. Just messy.